On the left are some lost foam patterns. The top pic is some
parts that have been sprayed with drywall mud. The second
pic is some patterns ready to spray. The bottom patterns
are patterns that have been dipped in drywall mud this is
the old way I used to do it. This way is very messy and takes
a long time for them to dry. Spraying the patterns with very
thin mud is the best. The last pic is of a pattern that is
taped up with masking tape. this works well but your part
will come out exactly like the shape with the masking tape
on it.
parts that have been sprayed with drywall mud. The second
pic is some patterns ready to spray. The bottom patterns
are patterns that have been dipped in drywall mud this is
the old way I used to do it. This way is very messy and takes
a long time for them to dry. Spraying the patterns with very
thin mud is the best. The last pic is of a pattern that is
taped up with masking tape. this works well but your part
will come out exactly like the shape with the masking tape
on it.
Having a foundry opens many options for projects that you can build
and are only limited by your imagination. Here are some photos of a
few of the things I have made with mine.
and are only limited by your imagination. Here are some photos of a
few of the things I have made with mine.
Like everything else I started my foundry to make parts for other cnc
projects. Like a new cnc router table 5' x 9' big enough to get a sheet of
ply wood on the table. I have been using the lost foam process to make
castings. More on this later. Here is a few pics of my 5 gallon bucket
furnace with homemade refractory lining. The homemade lining will not
last as long as commercial but it will get me going faster.
projects. Like a new cnc router table 5' x 9' big enough to get a sheet of
ply wood on the table. I have been using the lost foam process to make
castings. More on this later. Here is a few pics of my 5 gallon bucket
furnace with homemade refractory lining. The homemade lining will not
last as long as commercial but it will get me going faster.
For now I use some fire bricks for the lid. One of these days I need to
make a real lid for this beast. You can see the steel crucible and crucible
handling tools I use.
make a real lid for this beast. You can see the steel crucible and crucible
handling tools I use.
Here is my latest attempt at green sand casting. You can see the
process of the pour. My sand was too wet so it caused some surface
roughness but maybe the parts will be usable.
process of the pour. My sand was too wet so it caused some surface
roughness but maybe the parts will be usable.
Pic #1 pre heating another ingot. Pic #2 removing the crucible. Pic #3
skimming the dross. Pic #4 the pour. Pic#5 cooling off. Pic #6 breaking
out the product.
skimming the dross. Pic #4 the pour. Pic#5 cooling off. Pic #6 breaking
out the product.
This was the product of my second attempt. The first
attempt poured well but had some sand inclusion. The
second attempt looks much better and will be usable.
I forgot to weight down my flasks and the cope lifted
during the pour and caused some flash on the parts.
I will put up a pic of the cleaned up parts later. I also
need some finer sand!
attempt poured well but had some sand inclusion. The
second attempt looks much better and will be usable.
I forgot to weight down my flasks and the cope lifted
during the pour and caused some flash on the parts.
I will put up a pic of the cleaned up parts later. I also
need some finer sand!
These pics are the cleaned castings.
Then they were drilled and reamed
to accept a .250" shaft you can see
the setup on my drill press.
Then they were drilled and reamed
to accept a .250" shaft you can see
the setup on my drill press.
Then you can see the handle for the control of the radius tool being
drilled for the main shaft and cross drilled for the pin that holds it on.
drilled for the main shaft and cross drilled for the pin that holds it on.
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